12+ hours to Bali: Eighth stop

I am nervous, yet excited. This is where the more unusual part of my trip begins, where the culture changes dramatically...not to mention the language.
Flying in to Bali at night I try to keep my nerves in check - many other people have managed very well here, and so shall I. After passing through the visa process and being told of the Death Penalty for drug trafficking, I am spat outside into the humid air. With no accommodation reserved I wonder if I should veer towards the backpacker/resort mecca of Kuta but instead get a taxi to Sanur - a little further East and reportedly less hectic. It is humid here but less so than Cairns (not sure how it will be in the morning) and there are beautiful, ornate statues by the side of the roads, at intersections, in front of buildings.

There's a constant stream of motorbike traffic and the taxi driver goes into this veritable river. Beeping his horn at one bike I wonder if he wants them to move but no, it's a friend who smiles in at us, a pretty girl perched on the back of his vehicle. Made, the driver, tells me how this guy is a playboy with many girlfriends. I wonder if he's jealous - he earlier confessed that he doesn't have a girlfriend because you only have one here if you have money. He already has 3 jobs, working 9am t0 3am. These girls must be high-maintenance!

Then his phone rings and, without slowing down he answers and starts to talk in an almost drawling voice to whoever is on the other end of the line, just missing a turning lorry and overtaking motorbikes and minivans without a care in the world. We pass a load of people getting a ride in the back of what looks like an animal carrier. Made tells me they have come from a ceremony.

Leading up to Nyepi (Balinese New Year) there are numerous festivities and rituals that take place. On the day itself - this year it will be March 26 - no-one leaves their home: this is to persuade the evil spirits that Bali is deserted. This happens to be the day I am meant to fly out to Kuala Lumpur. I've been told my several locals that not only will the airport be closed, but that there's no way I could get there anyway as no-one will be out. You are not allowed to go outside on 'silent day'. I would love to experience this celebration; usually the day before is a big parade/party with effigies, masks and drums to scare away the bad spirits (may not take place this year for fear of unrest before the upcoming elections). The question remains: how and when will I find my way to Malaysia? The people here are so friendly and the country seems so beautiful that maybe I will end up never wanting to leave.

The next morning:
Leaving my nerves behind, I head off to explore Sanur. Since today is a ceremony day (mainly in the morning people go to the temple) a lot of places are shut. Having been warned by the guidebook no to accept an invitation to drink alone with men - they take it as an invitation apparently - I am trying to decide whether to reply to the friendly-sounding hello's around me or not. Instead, I follow gut instinct and stop at a small, beachfront cafe/bar where I enjoy R10000 fresh juice and R50000 meals.

Yes, here I am a veritable billionaire - just lop off some zeros and you get the price in Canadian. Similarly, my R200000 hotel room (blissfully alone in a double bed, own bathroom and beautiful garden surroundings with pool) is a steal at C$20 a night. Yes, I could stay somewhere even cheaper and am sure that in the near future I shall, but for now I am happy to just relax, let the Malarone/anti-biotic haze of sleep overcome me and try my best to remember to apply DEET cream on a fairly regular basis.