Ko Phayam...no wait, Ko Chang

Leaving Khao Sok we were all ready for the beach again, and the islands beckoned - what a choice there are! The original plan was to go to the Surin Islands: part of a marine park, the diving and snorkeling there is supposed to be divine. However, in addition to a 6 hour boat ride and the high possibility of exceedingly expensive accommodation, the group made the decision to head to Ko Phayam instead - supposedly like Ko Samui (immensely popular island on the east coast) in the 80s.

A few buses took us to Rangong, basically on the border of Myanmar. We'd missed the regular 'ferry' service to the island so negotiated with someone to take a longtail - a 2 hour journey. Stocking up on grilled chicken and longan fruit at the market, we stepped aboard the most decrepit longtail yet, manned by what appeared to be a 15 year old boy. (Hard to tell, Thai's generally look a lot younger than they are). Then we're off! For 5 minutes to some other 'pier' where we wait about 20 minutes for two other pubescent youth to join us. Then we're off! For another 5 minute journey to get petrol. Then we're off! This time we really are... sitting shaded from the afternoon sun under the makeshift awning, life is good despite the water at the bottom of the boat and oily stains everywhere. But wait... 2 of us have to move to the back (right near the deafening engine) as otherwise, from what we can tell, the boat isn't weighted properly. Interestingly, the other 'crew members' are able to sit anywhere...spilling the fuel, smoking right next to it, throwing their rubbish into the sea...

A glorious sunset and perhaps 2 hours later, we approach an island in the impending dusk. Upon showing the driver a card with the name of the place we'd like to stay, he steers us to a beach. A deserted beach. A sharp whistle and someone comes, the bags are dumped on the sand and I'm the sole remaining passenger as the longtail bucks and bounces in the surf. This all seems wrong...we are not at the Bamboo Bungalows. Back the bags and others come and we go around bluff to another beach. This time there are lights and a few people. Recalling that some guidebook says you pass Ko Chang before getting to Ko Phayam, I ask the 14 year old female crew member if this is Ko Chang. She replies yes. I ask if its Ko Phayam. She replies in the affirmative again. It's nearly dark and as the boat reaches the sand we ask the 3 people there where we are. 'Ko Chang' they reply. Lovely, but...so various attempts at discussion start, aided by the woman who runs the guesthouse. Apparently its too dark for the teenagers to take us to Ko Phayam (no lights on their boat) and the sea is getting rougher. Negotiations are made, voices raised and the male owner comes out with a bong: conflict management Ko Chang style.

The bungalows are basic but nice, the owners very friendly, food absolutely great and the atmosphere utterly relaxing. The next morning we awake to a beautiful but small beach, days spent playing what we called shuffle board (same game as in Melaka), smoking for those who it appealed to and, for Edwin and myself, a walk to Long Beach. Supposedly the island's main drag. Empty but for about 6 people. Shops and restaurants look abandoned. Old pier stumps rotting away. Ghost town. There is a military presence on the island, in fact they paid the bungalows a visit one afternoon. A sorry-looking bunch, they're supposedly on the look-out for illegal Myanmar immigrants, although according to our hosts many work on Ko Chang. One with them, in fact. Every time one battalion moves in, the army welcomes the islanders to a big party on board one of their vessels, replete with food and drink. Funny old world.

Our days of relaxing draw to a close as we need to head north and one of our number is headed home. So early one morning we bid farewell to this blissfully underdeveloped island and head off in a much bigger, fuller longtail taxi to Ranong before the days final destination: Bangkok.